GATTO NERO

From a story by Ruggero Bovo

Gatto Nero was born in 1945, after the war. It was a “humble” place created for fishermen who came to have their fish fried or to play cards – it was a port tavern. Then, slowly, it evolved. I arrived in ’63. I was in the trade; I worked as a waiter, never as a cook, but I had worked off the island (I’m a true Burano native!), and for some reason, I was always allowed to enter the kitchens. When you’re young, you learn by watching and it sticks with you. So, one evening, during a family event with a large number of people, complaints arose about the slowness of the kitchen. What did I do? I took off my jacket, put on an apron, and entered the kitchen. There, I discovered that I enjoyed cooking. I found out that I had a passion for cooking, while still respecting the culture and our traditions. Over time, I added my personal touch, and today I can say that I am satisfied with what I have created. My whole dream is here.

At the beginning, I’m talking about 50 years ago, we worked with the locals, with young people who came out of the cinema and came to eat pasta… it wasn’t even a job. Then, slowly, tourism arrived, and this allowed me to express myself more in the kitchen, trying to create traditional dishes but with my own twist. In terms of ingredients, starting with vegetables, they are all from the northern lagoon: for example, the purple artichokes from Torcello and Mazzorbo, in my opinion, have a more pronounced bitterness but are also sweeter. The same goes for all the vegetables from these islands. The fishermen bring me the fish: the lagoon still offers a lot, depending on the season.

Our signature dish – which I call a world heritage item – is the go risotto, which, for me, is only eaten in Burano because I know which are the good go for making a good broth. For me, the best business card is the first courses, from dried pasta (from Gragnano) to homemade pasta (pappardelle and tagliolini), with which I create seasonal dishes with fish and vegetables. I also pay a lot of attention to the presentation of the dish because the eye wants its share too. I am very proud of my wife, who cooks the fried fish wonderfully, the best of all. Regarding the fish, I usually go to the table and explain how I can prepare it: baked, “acqua pazza”… I always try to recommend the cooking method based on the customer. Seventy percent of the customers who come are friends of friends of friends, or people we already know. They sit down, and we explain everything – it’s nice to work like this.

If the restaurant has reached this level, I owe it also to my son Massimiliano. He speaks English, took on the responsibility of public relations, and put the world in my hands; I managed the gastronomic side. On the other hand, I was lucky because I found a wife who helped me, encouraged me, and followed me in my creations. I dedicate 80% of my success to her. This year we celebrate our golden wedding anniversary, and we have been together for fifty years.

For me, the lagoon is everything – from its natural beauty to what it offers. The only thing that hurts me is that it seems that there is little respect for this heritage. We should have had it many years ago, so the lagoon could have given much more. My island is a pearl of the world because we live well here, we live peacefully, there is no stress, no crime. Of course, with the advent of tourism, it has changed a lot. My people are always polite and respectful, but they were not used to this great confusion, just as we were not used to it in Venice. The difference is that in Burano, everyone leaves at five, and the island becomes ours again, and it manages to maintain its colors, its traditions, and its culture.

My family is one of the oldest in Burano. That’s why I respect and cherish traditions very much because, for me, losing traditions means losing the culture of my island. That’s why I also tried to take it abroad – always through my son – and to make the culture of my island and the beauty of the lagoon known. It’s going very well; it’s a shame that the years go by.

In Buona Accoglienza, I have always seen an association that guarantees quality and the right price for everyone, including tourists. The person is pampered, eats high-quality products, and is not robbed. I also made this clear when I was interviewed by the BBC. I wanted to make it clear about the guarantee that this group of restaurateurs, of which I am proud to be a part, provides.