DA IGNAZIO
From a story by Fiorenzo Scroccaro
My father Ignazio, along with his wife Ada, took over this place in 1951. It was previously an osteria called Vini da Basiglio. We continued as a wine shop – serving and selling bulk wines – and gradually, first with some cicchetti, then with some dishes, it transformed over time into a trattoria, becoming what it is today.
Ada was in the kitchen, and I started working here after I graduated. We did a restoration in ’80, and over time, some furnishings changed, but in fact, everything remained the same. What has changed is the world around us. So in a sense, it’s a bastion of historical memory. While the city is changing outside, we try to cherish the territory and the culinary culture of the city.
Our desire has always been to preserve tradition. We are almost more innovative in trying to maintain what has come to us from the past and not conforming by offering the typical international cuisine, which then becomes the same everywhere. Therefore, like the other restaurateurs of Buona Accoglienza, we have chosen to preserve tradition, which is a very strong value for all of us. Quality and the seasonality of ingredients are certainly also common variables for all of us, and we have a strong family tradition associated with this place – there is a very strong connection with both the physical place and everything that revolves around it.
Then, in the kitchen, it’s clear that you can rethink the dish’s presentation rather than adding a few details. However, we are keen to maintain a connection with traditional Venetian and Venetian cuisine in general. So, we continue to offer dishes from our grandmother, albeit with a technical evolution.
Like others, we are part of the Buona Accoglienza project (of which we were among the founders) to emphasize our commitment to the city and the territory – each of us does what we can in our own field. We get our supplies from the Rialto fish market, which we know is in crisis. But what can an individual restaurateur who believes in Venetian cuisine, the territory, and their own city do? Individually, one can go to their local suppliers in the city and do their part. This is what one can do in their own small way.
Fortunately, we have a diverse clientele, both international (including high-profile individuals who find a certain privacy here) and local (this is a hangout for architects!), but they return, and they form the core. This is the beautiful thing about this city – there’s a very nice flow of people from the world of art, cinema, and more, but then it has the size of a village. We are pleased that when they come, they feel at home; they have been coming for years, and now we are friends. They understand the dishes, and it’s nice for us. We enjoy working here. In general, however, those who come here either know us or come recommended. Simply put, we have a beautiful inner courtyard, but we don’t advertise it with signs. We want to create an oasis of peace for those who genuinely seek it. The street just outside may be crowded, but you enter here and breathe.
Speaking of regular customers, they know that in that season we have “schie” (grey shrimp), which we serve peeled with polenta – a delicacy that you can’t find in many places, also because cleaning “schie” is laborious.
So, Buona Accoglienza is also this. Doing things with care. Sometimes it seems like we’re fighting windmills, but it’s essential to do what we can, stand out, denounce certain dynamics that harm the city’s image, work together, communicate jointly to reach as many people as possible, raise awareness regarding the supply of raw materials, fair prices, and quality. In our own small way, we continue to offer an authentic slice of the city at the right price for those seeking this traditional experience. Fortunately, there are still many of them.